In 1993 Ford started putting the smaller, hi-torque starter in all 5.0L HO’s. Not only will this save you near 10 pounds upfront but also comes in a smaller package for less heat-soak from long tube headers and more room to access some bolts. There’s no “real” need to get a race starter. Just order a new starter from a 1993 Mustang GT from $50 to $100, it won’t break the bank.
Wiring?
Keep in mind that the factory larger starter uses a fender mounted solenoid to which your starter/ignition circuit is attached to. The newer starters have their own solenoid (mounted to the starter) and you’d think you could get rid of that fender mounted solenoid and extended the small starter wire to the starter itself!? Nope! The stock wiring can’t handle the amperage draw of the upgraded starter mounted solenoid so, over time, you risk burning out your starter switch and/or wiring. This is why Ford recommends using the fender mounted solenoid.
Factory wiring for fox Mustangs up to 92
Suggested wiring diagram for installing a mini-starter
Most instructions will utilize the existing fender mount solenoid to power the mini-starter’s solenoid as the factory circuit can’t handle the draw. This is the easiest installation method.
Getting fancy, using a relay to get rid of the fender mounted solenoid
When doing a wire-tuck or even just cleaning up the engine bay, you can use a marine grade bus bar to organize the spaghetti of wires at the solenoid. You can use a simple relay to power the new starter’s solenoid. You’ll need:
- 12ga wiring
- 35amp relay
- Fuse holder (10-15amp)
- Bus bar
Word of caution
Your new setup will have un-fused and direct battery power going to the starter, that means if you are not careful in routing and protecting your cable – you risk having a fire hazard. Make sure the starter cable is secured tightly and well protected with grommets (where it passes though factory brackets) and wrapped with wire-loom.
